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American Woodworker n° 08 Magazine | PDF File | Mo | 76 pages. ABOUT AMERICAN WOODWORKER American Woodworker magazine is a. great Book of. Woodworking. Tips Over IngenIOus WOrkshOp. TIps, TechnIques, and secreTs from the Experts at American Woodworker. Download [PDF] Great Book of Woodworking Projects (American Woodworker) ( American Woodworker (Paperback)) Download and Read.
U e a test piece to figure out the depth of the rabbet on the back of the molding Photo Te t the fit of the panels in the frames as you go. Cut the molding to length and fasten it to the door Photo The tape protects the mirror by ab orbing the shock of clo ing the door. Start with a shallow pass. Stain the panels to even out their color.
The panels are slightly undersized.
Place the panels in the leg frames. Make the door panels E4 and E5 in the arne manner as the side panel. Open the door. To in tall or remove a drawer from the case. I '1-Y.. H which al o act as drawer top.
I noticed that they drooped too much. I added orne anti-tip de Build the drawer boxe fir t.. J Fig. Hang the doors with oYerla hinge. After I buil t my drawers The drawers Fl through F3 are imple boxe with applied walnut face F6. G Door Details IH.. Use foam weatherstripping to cushion the mirrors. Make a molding to hold mirrors on the back of the doors. After Fig.
Make walnut panels with round corners to fill the openings see inset. He and hi wife. If the mirror ever needs to be replaced.. Test the depth of the molding's rabbet to make sure it holds the mirror tight. Two of the legs go on the paneled front: The front le have morti e on the inside edge and the adjacent in ide face. Squinting isn't necessary to appreciate the de k' pacious writing surface and ample torage or its Arts and Crafts motiE and modem tyle. Like a log cabin. Figured maple pline fitted between the rails create the chinking.
The legs MiU the le to final ize as rectangular blanks 1. Log Cabin Writing Desk Rustic tradition meets modern style. Squint a bit and you'll ee logs and chinking-the muck-and-straw mixn1re pioneers depended on to keep out drafts. Cut the tapers a tiny bit wide to allow removing the saw marks b making a pass on the jointer or with a hand plane. Po ition the rip fence to e tablish the tenon ' length. The tenons are offset from center. D and E. Then adjust the plunge depth and rout the deep portion.
Test-fit all the panel assemblies. This creates a long tenon on each rail and a haunch for additional strength. Then layout the tenon Fig. Lay out the 1 ' 2" morti e and rout them usin a plun e router with a guide fence and a 1 2" upcut pi raJ bit Photo 1. A mortiser doe the job in one tep. Note that 1 the rail tenon are always offset toward the outside face. Lower the blade to cut the outide cheeks.
The rails for the side panels shown here have wide tenons at the back and stepped tenons at the front. Rout mortises the legs for rails and fig red maple splines. Rout the tepped mortises in tage. The mortises are similarly stepped. The rails The tenons that Mill tock for the rails A2-A4 and cut them to final dimension.
Then make additional passe. Cut tenons on the rails with a dado set. Round the ends of the tenons to match the mortises. The 1 2" mortises on the front legs are stepped. Disassemble the panel and carefull glue cleats A on the marked edge Fig. CTapered Leg Fig. Apply one coat of fini h to the pline.
Mill the pline tock to fit the groove and then cut the spline A5-A7 to length and width. The e cleats allow in tailing the two middle web frame. Assemble the web frames with loose tenons. The panels Leave quare the top edges of the four top rail and the inside edge of the rail on the side panel and in ide panel that form the drawer bank.
The mstde panel's ra tls have wide tenons on both ends.
Round over the re t of the rail edge. Mark the top edges of the four middle drawer bank rails. Te t-fit each panel assembly without glue Photo 4. A Domino joiner works like a biscuit joiner.
Then round the ends of the tenons to fit the mortise Photo 3. Use Domino tenon or biscuits to join the tile and rails B1-B2. The web frames The web frame upport the drawers.
When the glue is dry. Bwnlsh the web frames so the drawers slide smoothly.
In tall the in ide panel pline without glue. Mill centered morti for Domino tenon or bi cuit lots in both ide of each frame. Glue on the pacer A9. Then sand the frame to 1 0 grit and burnish their top urface with paraffin Photo 8.
Install the Domino tenon Photo 7. Make ure the e mortise perfectly align with the morti e you've already cut on the leg that goe with the in ide rail. Glue and clamp. Allow the wax to cool. Transfer the mortise location from the e web frames to the two panels Fig F. Melt paraffin wax into the wood with an iron. The pacer builds out the top rail for attaching the pencil-drawer face frame.
Its bottom edge hould be flush with the outside edge of the leg. The side panels Glue the legs and rail together to create the two ide panels Photo 9. Then cut the mor-. They'll position the frames in the case. The top. Po ition a traightedge to guide the router. Then mill the parts exactly as wide as the height of the pace they will fit into. Hl-H2 and J and let them it overnight to tabilize. Don't glue the splines-they float between the rails to disguise seasonal movement.
American Woodworker #155 Aug-Sep 2011.pdf
Use a dovetail j ig to cut through dovetails in the box parts. Cut mortises for the web frames in the side panels and in the inside panel. Set the wenge on the fence and gently push it forward to touch the disc. Apply glue o the large mortises the legs and to the rail tenons. Burnish the inside urfaces with paraffin to help the drawers lide easily.
Make ure everything' aligned and square. Square this assembly and then glue and clamp the in ide panel to it Photo Apply glue and slide the drawerbank web frame into po ition again t the in ide panel. This unusual assembly will be omewhat unstable as the following tep are completed.
The case Assemble the front panel rails and pline without glue. Keep wax away from the open joints and the leg fronts.
Glue the side puels together. Dab a bit of glue in ide the hole and gently tap in the plug. Make ure the in ide panel is square to the front panel. Clamp a fence to the table. As before. Iightl plane or sand one ide and try again.
Install drawer tops All to position the middle drawer flush with the others. Glue the Inside panel assembly to the front panel rails. Bumi h the outside face and bottom edge of the drawer box ide with paraffin. The optimal amount depends on a number of factors. The pencil draw r front extends above and below the drawer box. G3 and H3. The ide will either fit ' r u Thth or not at all.
Detail 3. Photo Angl one end to match the lope of th inside panel' leg. Sand and finish the in ide face of the five main drawer box parts-tape off the glue joints before applying the finish. Then glue and clamp together the drawer boxe. The fit i ideal if you can pull the box two-third out and then do it b pushing with a finger at the side of the front. The bank' top drawer front extends above the box to cover the web frame. Te t-fit the boxe in the drawer openings. The parts simply slide into position because all the joints are oriented the same way.
Then cut the drawer fronts and backs to match. If the fit i too tight. Install the web frames and the side panels. Then joint the fronts and backs to match the ide. Before clamping. Fit each pair of drawer sides to allow seasonal movement. Lay out the boards in a plea ing arrangement that' about 1" oversize in width. Clui is a contributing editor to 0. Simply dampen the urface of the board with a ponge just before running it through the machine.
Then glue and clamp the top A The e fasteners wive to allow the top' eaonal movement. Then cut the board to length. Sand all the parts to grit. DeskTop Fasteners. Chris Can r is a freelance writer and novelist. Oil finishe look better when the urface are sanded to a higher grit. Maximum Fitness and Clean F.
Maple Box side Drawer front w. Planing figured wood uch as the curly maple shown here is likely to cause ub tantial tearout. J o int the edges get out the ponge again. Center the top on the case and in tall additional crews through the fasteners to ecttre it. Cut the top to final width and length and then and it to grit was used to make the splines that ornament the case. The next day. The n apply your favorite fini h. Dampening virtually eliminate tearout and it won't harm your machine as long as you keep the table waxed and dry off the cutterhead as soon as you've finished.
And once you've made the template. Then cut all the remaining parts. Clamp on a stop block Photo 1. Turn the braces around and use the same setup and method to cut one morti e at the top--the first decorative morti e. A and Cutting Li t. This will minimize anding after the bookrack i assembled. Use the two top blocks to cut the bottom mortise in both braces and the fixed end Photo 4. Clamp on both stop blocks after cutting each through morti e in the template Photo 5.
Set a ide the rod blanks. Repeat the proce to cut the remaining decorative morti e Photo 6. The decorative morti e are 1" from the top.
The template should be identical in ize to the fixed brace A and the adju table brace B. This prevents the splintering and blowout that can occur on the back face when a mortise i cut through from one face. Then cut that mortise in both brace. Po ition the template on the morti er with the bit centered on one of the bottom morti es. La' out the morti e on the template. Flip over the template. That means you can u e primo wood. Make ure to po ition the workpiece against the appropriate stop block when you flip it over to complete the morti e.
Then cut a through morti e Photo 2.
Cutting the three remaining decorative mortise in the two braces requires a slightly different approach. Add a bench top morti er and a weekend in your hop.
Cut the mortises Create a template that will make it e v to accurately po ition the piece for morti in cr. Check it out: Building thi Arts and Crafts style cutie.
Complete each mortise by cutting partway through on both faces. Sand both braces and the fixed end ' to grit. Final shaping and fitting Fig. Use a riser block to lift the template above the fence so the mortiser's hold-down works properly. Plane the two rod blanks down to fit the morti e.
Taper the outside edge of both braces by hand Photo 7. Use the two stop blocks to cut the bottom mortises. Then install a second stop block. Cut threequarters through each workpiece. Make sure the rod D freely pas through the morti e in the adju table brace.
Taper both ends of the fixed end on the tablesaw. Apply glue to the rods and then slide end into position. Then u e tape to mark the locations of the two fixed piece on the ends of the rod.
SUghdy aper bottom to top. Make ure the e pieces remain perpendicular.. Reducing the mass at the top helps the bookrack's overall appearance. Use the. Carefully apply glue to the rod and lide the fixed brace and the fixed end into po ition Photo 8. After cutting each new through mortise. COm U e a chi el to remove thi glue after it has hardened to a leather-like con i tency.
U ing a chisel to enlarge the mortises on the adju table brace is a more difficult option. Tape marks the spot and protects the surfaces from glue that squeezes out fixed brace and fixed end tightly enough to be effectively glued.
If the rods bind on the adjustable brace.. In A small amount of glue may queeze out and puddle where the piece of tape meet. When the glue i dry. Place the as embled rack on a flat urface.. Then apply a fini h uch as Deft Dani h Oil.. Iide both brace and the fixed end onto the rods-make ure the decorative morti e are oriented correctly.
Slightly chamfer the edge of both brace and the fixed end. Chamfer the ends of the rod. Learn to master your mortiser at AmericanWoodworlrer. Immerse yourself in the latest woodworking machinery and supplies. CNC technologies. This weekend project lets you show off one dazzling board.
I first built a headboard like this years ago using only a miter saw. Cut the top board B to the same length. Clamp a 1x4 along each line and trim the board to final length with your router Photo 1. The joinery consi ts of just gluing together ome of the 1x4. For materials. It will have the mo t dramatic effect if it's 12" to 16" wide.
There are a handful of ways you can do this yourself see 5 Ways to Flatten Wide Boards. Make the long side of the board traight and parallel using a router.
Make the legs First. Mo t hardwood lumberyards have a few odd boards that are over 12" wide-ideal candidate for this project. Mark the finished length of the front board. This dimen ion depends on two things: The project really is that imple.
My shop was just a driveway. If the board needs to be flattened. Make the front and top The front board A can be virtually any width. To calculate the legs' length. Cut thi board two inches extra-long using a jigsaw or a handsaw.
This method will work on a board of any size. The trick is to figure out how much to take off-and where. In this example, the mattress is 27" high. If you're good with planes, you can certainly level a wide board by hand.
But you can also do the job using smallshop power tools. Here are five methods:. If the board is more than 2" wider than your jointer, rip the board into two pieces and flatten each one separately. The critical step is figuring out where to make the rip cut to best conceal the joint. Running a warped board through a planer doesn't necessarily make it flat-just thinner.
Build a special sled with some strategically placed shims to keep the board from rocking. To level a board of any width, build a gantry for your router with two pieces of aluminum angle.
Cut the legs C and leg return D to length.
Cut the leg brace E to length. The e piece help keep the front board from warping by tiffening the legs. Glue the legs and leg return together, making ure that they are flush. Glue the brace to the legs Photo 2. Note that the final emblie will be mirror image of each other. Drill crew hole in the legs Fig. Plane, rout or sand a chamfer all around the legs, including the ends. Chamfer the front four edge of the front A and all four top edge of the top B. Sand all of the e piece to grit Cut all the tiffeners F and cleats G.
Drill two crew hole in each piece. Glue the cleats to three of the tiffeners. Finishing and assembly Fini h both ide of the front board with an equal number of coats. Thi will help prevent it from warping. To bring out the figure in my mahogany board, I first applied two coats of2-lb. I used two coats of ebony Minwax Wood Fini h it' actually an oil-based tain , followed b two coats of Polycrylic fini h.
They hould be flush with the end of the front board. Then in tall all the tiffene. Trim the end of the big board with a large top-bearing pattern bit. Guide the router with a straightedge. Clamp a scrap piece to the board to prevent blowout at the end of the cut. Glue the legs together. Place a cutoff under the board you're gluing to ensure that the joint comes out square. Apply two coats of black stain to the legs.
Use a spacer to position the leg below the board's top edge. The screws with fender washers pass through oversize holes, allowing the front board to expand and contract. Position this piece, and the one below it, snug up against the leg to prevent the headboard from racking side to side. For preci ion, you might think that power tool are the way to go, but I alway turn to a mall et of hand tool to do the job. U ing a marking knife, pin gauge and chi el, you can preci el lay out and cut hinge morti e in a very hart time.
Fir t, let me hare a few thoughts with you about the hinge them elve. When electing butt hinge , I teer clear of the inexpen ive stamped variety and in tead download high-quality extruded and machined hinge made from olid bras. The leave of the e hinge are typically thicker and tronger than tho e found on tamped hinge. They pivot moothly and preci ely. Look for hinge that appear proportional in ize to the door and cabinet.
I u ually elect a hinge that' approximately the arne height as the lower rail of the door.
Bevel the lock stile Mter carefully fitting the door to the cabinet, with a mall but even margin all around, bevel the edge of the lock tile the tile oppo ite to the one that receive the hinge. A bevel here prevents the back edge of the tile from triking or binding on the ca e as the door do e.
Fasten each hinge in its morti e Photo 9. Gently tap the chi el with a mallet nearly to the full depth of the morti e. I u e an edge-trimming block plane. Grinding a spade bit on the Drill Doctor DDSB guarantee that both cutting edges will be in the same plane and that the point will remain centered-a geometry that's very hard to achieve if you harpen spade bits by hand.
Both factors help make a spade bit run true. Drill Doctors are well-known, reliable machines for sharpening twist bits. Like its larger cousin, the EX-I6' head tilts, not the table.
That' a real advantage. Your workpiece tays level, giving you better control for intricate cuts. The EX al utiliz a parallel-link arm to minimize vibration. The larger Excalibur have the same type of arm.
The motor has a variable peed control, going from to trokes per minute. It repla the 0, a mod I that received top marks in our planer t I test back in In the year inee, few other mall planer have met the very high tandard set by the o. I the new model a tep forward? The new model introduce a three-knife cutterhead. The higher the number of cuts per inch, the moother the urface you'll get. Few other planer can match 96 cpi, the new model does quite well in this regard.
The old model, the , had a two-knife cutterhead. It was capable of producing 90 cpi, but this required you to witch the feed rate to a much lower peed. The new version of this app is a big step backward. The biggest problem for me that I am not seeing the latest issue of the magazine on older devices.
It used to work just fine. Another problem is that they have not thoroughly tested offline use. A couple of days ago I was away from net access and went to read the mag. It would not show me an issue I had previously downloaded because it could not connect to their site.We took your suggestions back to our development shop and got to work. That' a real advantage. Porter-Cable suggests that you use the high-speed steel knives.
The WR also has improved mounting hardware, and i designed to easily fit many brand of planer. Bevel the lock stile Mter carefully fitting the door to the cabinet, with a mall but even margin all around, bevel the edge of the lock tile the tile oppo ite to the one that receive the hinge. Fir t, let me hare a few thoughts with you about the hinge them elve.